How to renovate a Qualcast E1 push lawn mower

Working on the mower.

For the following, I have quoted the Qualcast part names and the part numbers shown on the diagrams above.

You may find it helpful to print out the parts diagrams to refer to.

Don't forget - the side quoted is as viewed when pushing the mower.

Before dismantling.

The R.H. wheel assembly is the original blue'ish colour, with the addition of some trendy rust!

Now, before doing anything else, is a good time to go round all the nuts and bolts, etc. with penetrating oil.

Note the handy arrow telling you which way to push the mower. This also shows the position for the oiling points, on the wheels, required to oil the drive pinions.

One thing to point out here is that, with the roller adjusted at this height, it is quite possible for the roller pin (19), which acts as its axle, to work loose during use and fall out.

Dismantling.

Step 1.

You will now need to use pliers to flatten the end of the split pin and then pull (or tap) it out.

Step 2.

Note the "E1/1" part number inside the wheel (1) casting - as quoted on the Parts List above.

Step 3.

This reveals the pawl (4) (also see next photo) - an ingenious shaped bar which slides through the cylinder spindle (15) and engages with the pinion (2) (gear wheel) in one direction only.

You will need to reassemble this the correct way round later on, so I suggest you use a marker pen to draw yourself a diagram inside the side plate.

Do the same for the other side when you get to it since they are different.

The gears are different as well, so, after you've cleaned them, put them aside on a marked bit of paper.

Step 4.

You can now undo the bolt (13) and washer (33) holding the sole plate (11).
The original one has a square head so your socket set and ring spanners will not work.

You can also undo the coach bolt (10), nut (32a) and washer (32) holding the roller carrier (7).
Again, it's a square-headed nut.

Step 5.

This shows one of the screws (38) which locate the front tube (35).

Again, they have a square head. I found that an 8mm spanner worked to undo one and a 10mm the other.

However, I found it convenient to only remove one side.

Step 6.

The photo shows the original on the right and a matching-thread one which I found and then sawed off and filed down the end.

Step 7.

This blurred photo shows the pawl (4) on the L.H. side which is a different way round to the R.H. one.

Step 8.

It's held in place by split pins (34) which you can remove with a pair of pliers.

Step 9.

Next, you can split the two sides.

I found that I had to twist them a little, back and forth, whilst pulling them apart, in order to free up the front tube (35).

Once split, you will be able to access the bronze bearing bushes (28) which will undoubtedly need a good clean-up.

Step 10.

These will all need a good soaking in penetrating oil.

The top one in the picture is the handle adjusting bolt and nut (31).

If you have to replace this one, note that using too long a bolt will result in it blocking access to adjust the lower screws.

Also note that the mower can operate quite well with only this bolt only fitted on one side.

The lower two are the sole plate adjustment screws (9) designed to be turned with a flat-head screwdriver.

Step 11.

I next treated the rusty parts with Hammerite Kurust.

Before painting, I stuffed some paper into each of the holes - to prevent paint fouling the threads.

Reassembly.

Step 12.

There is a lip at the other end of the hole which locates it at the correct depth.

Note the recess into which the bronze bearing adjusting screw (27) will fit.

Step 13.

Note that the slot in the bearing should align with the greasing hole in the side plate assembly (5 or 6).

The bronze bearing adjusting screw (27) should now be tightened enough to fix the bearing in place.

It can be tightened later if the cylinder assembly (15, etc.) is loose.

Now fit the cylinder assembly and front tube (35) into the two sides.

The front tube (35) will just project on the other side of the side plate - see the picture for Step 13 above.

The screws (38) which lock the front tube in place will need to locate in the dents in the tube which they have previously made.

Do not tighten them fully yet - wait 'till the sole plate has been fitted later on.

Step 14.

This shows them frack to bunt, sorry! The R.H. pair is on the left and the L.H. on the right.

It also shows how they engage in one direction and release in the other.

Step 15.

Its pawl (4) is in place, slotted into the greased spindle the correct way round.

Step 16.

Once it's in place, I suggest leaving the split pin for now - until you've checked the gears are working correctly.

Step 17.

Now you will be able to reassemble the other wheel in the same way.

Once in place, try rotating each wheel in turn, the correct way for mowing. The cylinder assembly (15, etc.) should turn in the right direction. This will show if you've got the gears the right way round.

If not, bad luck, you will need to swap the pinions (2 and 3) (gears) and their pawls (4).

If it is OK, then you can re-insert the split pins (8) in the wheels, with a bit of grease.

Then there's the spigot cover assemblies (36) (wheel caps) to clip in place.

Step 18.

You will have spotted that I didn't split the sole plate and blade in my renovation (it didn't seem necessary) so I can't advise on any problems you may find if you need to do so.

Don't over-tighten this screw as the sole plate has to be able to rotate.

However, doing it up will pull the two sides together the correct distance.

The screws (38) which lock the front tube (35) in place can now be fully tightened.

You will now need to fiddle with the sole plate adjustment screws (9 A and B) so that the blades are just rubbing together.

Step 19.

Since I'm not entering it in any shows, I haven't kept to the correct colours throughout - just used what paint I had lying about.

Finally.

You can see the tyres which seem to be the only difference between it and the E1.